Foncebadon to Ponferrada

FONCEBADON TO PONFERRADA 
Foncebadon is a cute little village. It flourished during the Middle Ages giving shelter and hospitality to pilgrims. They were even given a taxi exemption if they put in 800 stakes to mark the path. In the 10th century a church and hospital were built. The Protestant Reformation and the Napoleonic Wars decreased the popularity of The Camino until the 1960-70's saw only a mother and son living there. With resurgence of the Camino popularity today there are now several albergues and restaurants.
A foggy start to our day but a fitting one as today was our trip to Cruz de Ferro.
Jarrod of course was off as he was walking the full stage and will meet us in Cruz de Ferro then at the end in Ponferrada.
Ghostly view of a chimney.
We are under 240km.
Cruz de Ferro. It is the highest point on the Camino Frances at 1500m. The pole is 5 m high with an iron  cross on the top. It has been a waypoint since celtic times. In the 11 century a hermit named Gaulesmo had a calling for helping pilgrims. He established a hospital at Foncebadon and christianized  the waypoint with a tall cross so pilgrims could find their way even in the deep snow of winter. The original cross is in a museum but the pole has been cut down and the cross stolen. 
Cruz de Ferro is where you bring a rock from home and leave it here to put your  troubles in the past or ask for protection on the rest of your journey. There are thousands upon thousands of rocks here full of emotions, fears, joy and feelings. Today there are some people who are taking rocks away. Seems like desecration and theft to me.
Roz and Jarrod brought rocks from home.
Mine was little different and this was definitely an emotional day for me. One of my best friends and bridesmaid, Karen passed away 2 weeks before I left. We had been painting rocks one day and I asked her to paint me one so I could take it and leave it there.
it is quite the place and if you think of how long and how many people have placed a pebble or a rock there it is quite astounding.
The spiders are getting ready for winter. Actually at one point on the Meseta there were spider web strands floating through the air catching on your face, arms etc.
When you go up, you must come down.
These can get quite slippery.
We were walking along and all of a sudden there was music and laughing and we came around the corner and there was a little coffee bar. Heaven.
The fog was starting to lift.
Roz coming down a slippery trail.
Number is coming down.
Treacherous for us oldies.
A bit of colour.
Rock shelf we sat on to have a break.


Sun is coming out.


At last we made it to El Acebo where Roz had arranged for a taxi but upon inquiry they told us they were busy & to call the other cab company. Luckily there was a cab in town so when I talked to him in spanglish, he said he would be back in 40 minutes. An hour and 40 minutes later, as Roz would say "It's Spain.", he returned and told us he was picking up a retired Templar. He had been given a place to live but lived on donations. He had a doctor's appointment in Ponferrada so he was getting a ride on our dime which was fine with us especially after we saw that outside his gate he provided water and fruit for pilgrims 
Cafe con leche and vegetarian empanada while we waited.
Our view from the window of our room which was an attic room like the one across from us.








Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Bratislava

Image
The most photograghed statue in Bratislava. Cumil known as "The Man at Work" or "The Watcher". Rumour has it that he is a sewer worker who is taking a rest or who is looking up the ladies skirts. He was right across the street from our apartment. There is so much graffiti in Bratislava. It is a shame as it is on the ancient as well as newer walls. We arrived early before our apartment was ready so we went for food. Roz has introduced me to homemade lemonade.  Around the corner from our place was a pirate candy store. So many types of candy. Even Lego bricks. The entrance hall to our apartment. Roz done qvlgood finding this one. It is right in the heart of old town. Beautiful staircase to the upper floors. Hi Wes. We are on the 3rd floor. Looking out the living room window in our apartment. There is a courtyard between us and the set of apartments on the adjacent street. ...
Read more

SOS On Another Adventure

Image
So like two young carefree adults, Ed and I are setting out on a new adventure. The SOS team, Roz and myself, have decided to add two addtions to our team. Our husbands, Ed and Wes. Roz and Wes have been in Europe for several weeks already, enjoying their obsession with curling and bonspieling in the most amazing places. We are meeting them in London at Victoria station to continue on the journey with them. I am hoping all the tricks I learned last year from Roz will help me navigate getting to the train to take us to Victoria Station. Unlike when we were young and backpacking now technology makes things so much easier. Early morning start at Departure Bay. Of course on our flight, Ed found a young mom with a baby and gave her some relief by holding on to a baby who just wanted to move and won't have a nap. We ended up having a bunch of people passing little Rowan around and mom was able to have some adult conversation. No sleep on the plane. We ...
Read more

Porthmadog to Caernarfon

Image
After, William Madocks constructed the 1.6 kms seawall, now known as The Cob, he inadvertently formed a natural harbour. It did not take him long to realize the potential of the channel. Porthmadog was built to house the port workers but also the flourishing shipbuilding trade. Between 1830-1913 over 300 ships were built here. With the harbour, came the need to replace horse-drawn slate cars bringing slate from mines and quarries in the mountains to the wharves in Porthmadog to be shipped around the world. A narrow-gauge railway was built called the Ffestiniog Railway that was fed by various tramlines from the quarries. Still later the Welsh Highland Railway was added. We took a ride on this section of railway. Cenotaph across from our accommodations in Porthmadog. The mountains behind our accommodations. The Garth Calvanistic Methodist Chapel that is abandoned then slated for apartment conversion but is now an eyesore. It is a lovely buildin...
Read more